Let’s face it, most of us spend most of our time climbing indoors. Getting the best pair of gym climbing shoes is important to help get the most out of your indoor climbing experience.
Gym holds can be very rough on shoes so getting a very durable pair of shoes is crucial.
The durability of shoes is split between the thickness and hardness of the rubber. So shoes that have thick, hard rubber will last longer than shoes with thin, soft rubber.
That being said, many climbers prefer a soft, thin shoe for performance reasons. This is important for sending problems and routes at your limit but for the majority of climbs, you can get away with a more durable shoe.
Getting a proper gym shoe will also stop you from having to buy a brand new pair of rock climbing shoes every month or so. This can be a strain on your wallet, as well as your feet. Breaking in a new pair of gym shoes can be brutal on your toes!
The Multi Climbing Shoe System
Depending on your level of climbing, you might want to consider adding a variety of different shoes to your collection.
A full “rack” of shoes will consist of:
- Bouldering Shoes
- Sport Climbing Shoes
- Gym/Indoor Shoes
- Crack Climbing Shoes
- Level Dependant Shoes (Beginner, Intermediate, Etc..)
Ideally, we would all have 5 plus shoes with us at all times but this is often impractical. It is much more realistic to have just 2-3 pairs of shoes depending on what type of climbing you do most often.
The one thing that is almost always the same for any climber is we all climb in the gym. That means that everyone should have a good pair of dedicated indoor climbing shoes to keep their high-performance shoes from wearing out.
Top 5 – Best Climbing Shoes for the Gym
Best Use: All Around Easier Climbing
Doubling as one of the better Beginner climbing shoes on the market, the Mad Rock Drifter is also one of the best gym climbing shoes. Having a fairly hard and thick rubber sole, these shoes allow the user a multitude of climbing potential.
Claiming to have sent up to V15 performance is not an issue with the Drifters.
The Mad Rock Drifters are the perfect shoe for any beginner looking to do hours of training in the gym. They are also about half the price of everything else on this list!
Best Use: Cracks and Moderate Sport/Bouldering
Ever wonder what it would be like to climb barefoot but still have the exceptional friction of Stealth Rubber? Well, this is exactly what you get with the Five Ten Anasazi Mocs!
These are possibly the most comfortable shoes on the market, as well as the best bang for your buck!
Best Use: Moderate to Hard Bouldering/Sport Climbing
With a perfect blend of comfort and performance, the Scarpa Vapor Vs are some of the best shoes on the mark. They support the durable Vibram XS Edge rubber for long-lasting use.
It always hard to get a proper gym shoe that will also be great for outdoor climbing as well. The Scarpa Vapor V is the exception to that problem.
With the ability to climb 5.15, you can go from with the Vapors
Best Use: Bouldering or Hard Sport Climbing
The Shamans are the brainchild of one of the most epic climbers of all time, Chris Sharma! These shoes are SICK!
Being a great shoe for climbing hard stuff but also having a thick set of rubber makes these a great option for the regular gym rat. These shoes will also perform above average on outdoor climbing so don’t count them out on your next trip!
Best Use: All Around Moderate Climbing
The La Sportiva Oxygyms are the only climbing shoes made specifically for indoor climbing. They have all the great technology of all the other model La Sportiva puts out but they are also machine washable! That right no more smelly shoes!
With a hearty 5 mm of rubber, you won’t be needing a new pair of shoes anytime soon.
Did we mention you can get them for under $100!
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If you are looking to start training check out this guide. It will help you climb strong and safer!
Keep Crush Y’all!