Most good hangboards have a variety of holds that include jugs, crimps, slopers, and pockets. This is critical when trying to gain strength on a certain type of hold and increase over strength.
When starting a hangboard workout routine, you must be extra careful not to push yourself too hard. Tendon strength is something that will develop over a long period of time so don’t try to rush it. It is probably a better idea to check out our Strength Training for Climbing Program to build up a good base layer of strength.
A good gauge to determine if you are ready to start a hangboard workout routine is to see how many pull-ups you can do. If you can’t get 10 clean reps without failing then I would just stick to climbing as much as possible. Strength will come soon enough.
Assuming you are adequately strong enough to start the hangboard routine lets go over the warmup.
If you are looking to get stronger and do some training make sure to download our Free PDF Training Guide!
Warmup for Hangboard Training
Getting properly warmed up is so important when it comes to training on a hangboard. If you don’t warm up you risk the chance of injury.
The best warmup for a hangboard workout is to climb some easier problems or routes in the gym. This is great if you can make it to the gym but many of us are busy and will have to do the workout at home.
If you are a home during the workout you will need to get creative.
First, make sure to get a good stretch. Make sure to include upper and lower body stretches as this increases the blood flow to your muscles and prepares them for training.
Second, try to get a quick cardio session in to increase your heart rate. This can be a short jog or some calisthenics.
Last, alternate between doing about 10-20 pushups and then 5-10 pull-ups for 3-5 sets. This will prime your body and maximize your efforts during your hangboard workout session.
Hangboard Workout for Beginners
No matter how strong you are you should always start out with a beginner hangboard workout. This ensures that your tendons and muscles are ready for the abuse of this intense style of training.
You should seriously consider starting at this level of intensity if you meet the following criteria:
- You can easily do 10 pull-ups
- You have been climbing steadily for over 1 year
- You can Boulder V4 or Sport Climb 5.11
- You are 100% injury free
Starting a hangboard workout too early in your climbing career may result in unwanted side-effects. This could include a number of injuries and little to no strength gains.
Always err on the side of caution when it comes to this style of workout.
The Beginner Hangboard Routine
If you think you are ready for this workout then proceed to the following table.
Make sure you rest for 3 minutes after your warmup session before starting the workout. This workout should take about 30 minutes to complete. Don’t be afraid to take extra rest if you get tired.
Also, it is very important to get enough rest after this workout. A minimum of 2 days should be taken when first starting the routine.
Disclaimer: Before attempting this workout you need to be certain your body can handle it. This is very strenuous on your fingers, forearms, and shoulders. Be smart and know your limits.
Beginner Hangboard Workout Routine
| # | Hold Type | Description | Rest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jug | Dead hang 20 seconds | Rest 30 seconds |
| 2 | Sloper | 5 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 3 | Crimp | Dead hang 10 seconds | Rest 90 seconds |
| 4 | Jug | 10 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 5 | Sloper | 5 Knee raises | Rest 90 seconds |
| 6 | Crimp | 5 Pull-ups | Rest 90 seconds |
| 7 | Jug | Dead hang L sit 10 seconds | Rest 90 seconds |
| 8 | Sloper | Dead hang to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 9 | Jug | Pull-ups to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 10 | Crimp | Dead hang to failure | Rest 2 days (seriously) |
Hangboard Workout for Intermediate Climbers
Thinking about taking your climbing to the next level? Ready to up the intensity of your hangboard workout routine?
This is a good starting off point for a climber of any strength as it will teach you about good form and technique. This routine will also get you to make a habit out of getting proper rest and sufficiently warming up.
The following workout is more aimed towards climbers who have been doing the beginner workout for at least 1 month and find it to be rather easy. Being an intermediate style climber is a big step when it comes to hangboard training.
Moving up in difficulty too fast will often cause injury. Please take extreme caution when increasing the intensity of your workout!
The Intermediate Hangboard Routine
Be sure to rest for at least 3 minutes after your warmup session.
Also, take a minimum of 2 rest days after this intense intermediate hangboard workout!
Disclaimer: Before attempting this workout you need to be certain your body can handle it. This is very strenuous on your fingers, forearms, and shoulders. Be smart and know your limits.
Intermediate Hangboard Workout Routine
| # | Hold Type | Description | Rest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jug | Dead hang 30 seconds | Rest 30 seconds |
| 2 | Sloper | 7 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 3 | Crimp | Dead hang 15 seconds | Rest 90 seconds |
| 4 | Jug | 12 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 5 | Sloper | 10 Knee raises | Rest 90 seconds |
| 6 | Crimp | 7 Pull-ups | Rest 90 seconds |
| 7 | Jug | Dead hang L sit 15 seconds | Rest 90 seconds |
| 8 | Sloper | Dead hang to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 9 | Jug | Pull-ups to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 10 | Crimp | Dead hang to failure | Rest 2 days (seriously) |
Hangboard Workout for Advanced Climbers
So you’re ready to upgrade to the advanced version of the hangboard workout routine?
This routine is designed specifically for the climbers who have excelled at both the beginner and intermediate hangboard workout routines.
A good way to tell if you are ready for this advanced hangboard guide is to try the intermediate routine. If you can do the easier hangboard workout without struggling then you are ready to start the advanced routine.
Be extremely cautious before trying a more difficult workout. It can cause injury if you are not getting the proper amount of rest. If someone feels weird STOP! Injuries for climbers are devasting and should be avoided at all costs!
A good way to prevent the chance of injury is to warm up thoroughly. By doing this you are letting your muscles and tendons get enough blood flow to take the beating of a hangboard workout.
The Advanced Hangboard Routine
After you are completely warmed up be sure to rest for at least 3 minutes before starting the hangboard workout session.
Also, take a minimum of 2 rest days after this intense hangboard workout!
Disclaimer: Before attempting this workout you need to be certain your body can handle it. This is very strenuous on your fingers, forearms, and shoulders. Be smart and know your limits.
Advanced Hangboard Workout Routine
| # | Hold Type | Description | Rest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jug | Dead hang 60 seconds | Rest 60 seconds |
| 2 | Sloper | 10 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 3 | Crimp | Dead hang 25 seconds | Rest 90 seconds |
| 4 | Jug | 15 Pull-ups | Rest 60 seconds |
| 5 | Sloper | 15 Knee raises | Rest 90 seconds |
| 6 | Crimp | 10 Pull-ups | Rest 90 seconds |
| 7 | Jug | Dead hang L sit to failure | Rest 90 seconds |
| 8 | Sloper | Dead hang to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 9 | Jug | Pull-ups to failure | Rest 180 seconds |
| 10 | Crimp | Dead hang to failure | Rest 2 days (seriously) |
Final Words
We are always looking for better workout routines. If you have any of the comments on the hangboard routines above please let us know in the comments below.
Please feel free to criticize this hangboard workout routine. The goal of this post is to make a good, free workout for every level of climber to use.
Hope you like it. Keep Crushing!
Owner and Operator of Every Last Rock. He is dedicated to spreading the Stoke about all things climbing. Often found Bouldering around the US and obsessively training.
