Ok, the real question here is why are you reading this when you could be Bouldering at one of the sickest crags in the world, Joe’s Valley!
Hopefully, you are planning your next trip to Utah already, but if not we will give you a few reasons to start.
It’s hard to imagine a place with so much bouldering in such a small area. You also can’t beat the desert weather (sunny and dry) as well as the local climbing culture.
If you are trying to dirtbag it, Joe’s is hard to beat. Free camping, Cheap groceries, and showers in town.
Joe’s Valley is a special place. The people there are awesome. Ego’s are level and stoke is high. Running out of climbs is nearly impossible.
Bouldering in Joe’s Valley
If you love sandstone you will be happy to hear that Joe’s has some of the best!
The Bouldering at Joe’s is mostly steep and featured. Many gym climbers will fair well on the big moves that many of the classics offer.
The friction is excellent in Joe’s. The rock quality can change drastically depending on what area you are in. Some if bullet hard, other stuff is sandy. That being said there are no shortages of high-quality problems. Mountain Project has over 450 listed and there is more being developed every day.
Approaches vary from 3 feet from the road (seriously…) to 15 min uphill hikes. Most are under 5 minutes and can be done with multiple pads. This makes Joe’s an ideal place to get a high volume of climbing in!
Camping in Joe’s Valley
The camping is free at Joe’s Valley for the time being. There are some rumors going around about it becoming a paid area and we will keep you up to date on this topic.
As of right now, there are 3 main spots to camp in the Valley.
There are also other small pull-offs that you can camp at just make sure you follow any posted signage.
Please try to keep all the areas clean. The SLCA has put in pit toilets in these areas so please be respectful. It is a privilege to camp here!
Gear and Food
The towns near Joe’s Valley (Orangeville and Castledale) are very accommodating to climbers.
For all of your grocery needs the Food Ranch is the best. You have to try the Donuts, they are world famous (at least it says so on the building). The Oreo and Butterfinger are the best, just saying.
They also have a select inventory of climbing supplies. They do crashpad rentals in case you couldn’t bring yours.
The Food Ranch has an upstairs room called the “Spartans Den” that climber can hang out and use the wifi. Again, please be respectful of this store as it is an important lifeline for the climbing community.
Just down the street in Castledale you can find a post office, laundromat, auto store, and a few restaurants.
Season and Weather
In general, the season for Joes is Early Spring and Late Fall. That being said, the season can be extended with the exception of extreme summer and winter if you know where to climb.
Warmer days are best in Dairy Canyon or shady boulders in Left Fork.
Colder days are best at New Joes or mid-day sunny boulders in Right Fork.
The weather is more than not sunny and dry in Joes Valley. If it does happen to rain be careful not to climb on wet sandstone as it may break.
The Best of the Best in Joe’s Valley
Note: All the grades at Joe’s are up in the air. It’s part of the experience, just go with it!
Hard (V7-V hard)
- Planet of the Apes V7
- Chips V7
- Bringing the Heatwole V7
- Baldwin Bash V7
- The Flu V8
- Worst Case Scenario V9
- No Substance V9
- Resident Evil V10
You really can’t beat Joes Valley. It has everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Next time its raining is Squamish or blistering hot in Jtree make a trip to Joe’s, you won’t be disappointed!