This post was last updated on Aug 22, 2018 @ 7:28 pm
Are you new to Rock Climbing and looking for the best climbing shoe for a beginner? Well, you're in luck.
Most newbie's climb in rental shoes for the first couple of weeks. Rental shoes are nice (smelling...) for a bit but investing in a solid shoe for yourself is an invaluable acquisition for your climbing career.
The main things a novice climber should be concerned about when choosing their first pair of shoes are:
1. Comfortable Shoes
2. Optimal Performance
3. High-Value Price
A shoe that will get you the best performance, while still being comfortable and not break the bank is a tough thing to find. Fortunately, we have all the beta you need to get your first pair today.
There are so many options out there when it comes to Rock Climbing Shoes. It is very hard to pick between all the different variations.
Keep reading to find out what the top 5 shoes are today.
Here are the top picks for the best beginners climbing shoes. More information on each shoe can be found below!
| Rank | Shoe | Best Use | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | SCARPA Men's Force V | Best Overall | $$$ | |
| 2 | Five Ten Rogue | Stickiest Rubber | $$ | |
| 3 | Mad Rock Drifter | Best Budget Shoe | $ | |
| 4 | La Sportiva Tarantula | Basic and Good Brand Name | $$ | |
| 5 | Evolv Defy | Cheap and Versatile | $ |
Beginners Rock Climbing Shoes - Comfort
Let's face it, climbing shoes are not very comfortable. Long gym sessions with your feet shoved into tight down-turning shoes is a recipe for disaster. If you have uncomfortable shoes it will most likely cause you to stop climbing or develop a foot problem.
Be careful not to listen to others talking in the gym about shoving their feet in the shoes that are 4 sizes too small. You will get there one day but for now, you want a comfortable fit that will let you climb all day without pain.
Getting the fit of your first pair of shoes can be a bit tricky, especially when buying them online. Gyms usually only have 1 or 2 options for beginner friendly shoes so you might not have another option. Amazon is really good about letting you return shoes that do not fit for free.
Note: Most climbing shoes will stretch at least 1/2 size after a week or two of wearing. If the shoe feels just a touch too tight at first it will probably feel just right have the shoe is broken in.
Beginners Rock Climbing Shoes - Performance
Typically, performance is lacking in most beginner shoe models. This is especially true when the shoe is comfortable and/or cheap.
That being said, you can still get a high-performance shoe that is suitable for a beginner. Usually, this means that the rubber on the sole will be of higher quality. It could also mean that the closure system is better quality or the edge is more defined.
Generally, a good beginners shoe will be suited for all types of climbing. This makes the shoe ideal to test out all aspects of Rock climbing such as Bouldering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, and Top Roping.
Warning: Do not be tempted to purchase a super aggressive bouldering shoe as your first shoe. Just because you are wearing a $200 pair of shoes with paper thin rubber and a toe-curling downturn does not mean you will climb better. This will only run out your bank account and most likely mess up your toes.
If you are looking to get stronger and do some training make sure to download our Free PDF Training Guide!
Beginners Rock Climbing Shoes - Price (high value)
Budget is one of the biggest factors when it comes to purchasing your first pair of shoes. If you are a poor college student you might be looking for whatever is cheapest. On the other hand, if you are working full time and have money to blow it might not matter to you.
A few words of wisdom. The climbing shoe game is ruled by a few big-time manufacturer. These include La Sportiva, Scarpa, 5.10, Evolv, Mad Rock, and a few other high-end companies. Venturing outside of these strong brands is risky and will most likely end in the rubber peeling off your shoes (aka don't buy a pair of Climb X...).
Climbing Shoe Types
There are basically 3 different types of climbing shoes. When we say "type" of climbing shoes we mean the shape and contour of the shoe. Depending on what type of climbing you mostly do will depend on what shape of shoe you get. Most shoes can fall into one of the following categories:
1. Neutral
2. Moderate
3. Aggressive
Each type of climbing shoe has its specific purpose. You might be asking, how does the shape of a climbing shoe effect your climbing? Let's go over these in a bit more detail.
Neutral Climbing Shoe
A neutral climbing shoe is a shoe that has a relatively flat sole. The main benefit of a neutral shoe extended all-day comfort. This is best for longer rock climbs, such as multi-pitch, and climbers with sensitive feet.
Main features of neutral shoes:
- Simple flat design makes them comfortable to wear
- Thicker rubber relieves stress off the toes
- Limited flexibly makes then not ideal for overhanging routes
- Great for crack climbing
Most beginner climbers get a neutral shoe. This is mainly due to the months or years it takes to build up the muscles in the toes. A neutral shoe will ensure you don't overstress your feet during your first couple of months climbing.
Moderate Climbing Shoe
A moderate climbing shoe is the next level up. This type of shoe will start to force your toes to curl downwards into a pointed position. This shoe will serve best as a dedicated lead climbing shoe or a moderately overhanging bouldering shoe.
Main features of moderate shoes:
- Downturn will increase performance on steep routes
- Rubber is most likely be sticker and thinner
- Shoes will wear faster than neutral shoes
- Great for mid-ranged Sport Climbing
For a total beginner, a moderate shoe may be too much downturn. The shoes listed below are all neutral shoes. Most moderate shoes would classify as intermediate climbing shoes. If you think you are ready for this type of shoe please go to the intermediate climbing shoe review.
Aggressive Climbing Shoe
An aggressive shoe is the most advanced form of climbing shoe. These shoes are designed to aggressively force your toes to make a sharp downward point. These shoes will best serve advanced boulderers and high-level sport climbers.
Main features of moderate shoes:
- Shoes can be extremely uncomfortable and hard to put on
- Downturn puts your foot in a powerful position
- Thin rubber allows for good sensitivity through the shoe
- Great for hard Bouldering or Sport
If you are just starting out, don't get a pair of these shoes. If you want to buy a pair now and wear them in the future look into these Bouldering Shoes or these Sport Climbing Shoes.
5 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners
Note: Shoes are ranked for the criteria listed above out of 5 stars. Price is not based on the absolute price but on the relative value for the given price (aka the best bang for your buck).
#5 Evolv Defy Climbing Shoe
Comfort: ⭐⭐
Performance: ⭐⭐⭐
Price: ⭐⭐⭐
The Evolv Defy is a good starter shoe. Comfort and Performace are lacking compared to some of the following shoes.
It has TRAX high friction rubber soles and Synthetic Upper. This rubber is thick and will last for multiple seasons. It is ideal for heavy gym use. The rubber on this model is decent but it is not the best stuff out there.
This shoe will not stretch during use due to the material being Synthetic instead of leather. This means you can buy the exact size you want, rather than buying a pair too small and breaking them in. The price is good on these shoes as they will last you a long time.
Women's Model: Evolv Elektra
Men's Model: Evolv Defy
#4 La Sportiva TarantuLace Rock Climbing Shoe
Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Performance: ⭐⭐⭐
Price: ⭐⭐⭐
La Sportiva is arguably the best climbing manufacturer in the world.
Starting off with the TarantuLace Shoes is a great starting point for anyone's climbing career. These shoes feature a comfortable leather upper that has added breathability technology. The TarantuLace's have FriXion RS rubber soles with is an excellent starter rubber. It provides excellent smearing and edging capabilities.
These shoes are a bargain for the quality you are getting. La Sportiva does not disappoint!
Women's Model: La Sportiva Women's Tarantulace
Men's Model: La Sportiva Men's Tarantulace
#3 Mad Rock Drifter Climbing Shoe
Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Performance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Price: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Mad Rock's Drifter shoe has a very simple and effective velcro closure system that makes putting your shoes on and taking them off a breeze. The shoe opens up wide to let your feet get in and then adjusts perfectly to your foot's shape with the two velcro straps.
It offers a leather upper with a synthetic insole for all-day comfort and breathability. This leather upper also means that you won't wear out these shoes in a hurry. Mad Rock's Science Friction Rubber is one of the industry's leading climbing rubbers. Science Friction rubber has an excellent wear resistance and is ready for those long gym sessions.
Unisex Model: Mad Rock Drifter
#2 Five Ten Rogue VCS Climbing Shoe
Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Performance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Price: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
The Five Ten Rogue VCS Climbing Shoes blend the categories of beginner shoes and mid-ranged all-around shoes. These shoes have a mostly neutral shape with a hint of downturn.
These shoes feature the extremely high performing Stealth C4 rubber. Five Ten Stealth rubber has been the #1 climbing shoe rubber for years. This rubber is highly durable and designed to have maximum friction. This stuff will stick to anything!
The Rogue's have a leather upper and a solid sole that is ideal for newer climbers. These shoes are designed to withstand countless hours in the gym and hard abuse from outdoor climbing. Comfort is suburb with these Five Ten's and the price is hard to beat.
Women's Model: Five Ten Women's Rogue VCS
Men's Model: Five Ten Men's Rogue VCS
#1 Scarpa Force V Climbing Shoe
Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Performance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Price: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
They offer Vibram XS rubber with a super crisp edge for maximum hold. Getting started with a Vibram rubber shoe is great for beginners. Most of the top shoes in the climbing world (such as the Solutions, the Miuras, and the Instincts) use Vibram rubber so you will be ready for the transition.
With the Force V's you are essentially getting a high-end shoe without the aggressive downturn. These are ideal for a beginners foot that is still developing the strength and technique required for an aggressive shoe.
The Technical flat-lasted construction makes them ideal to wear during long training sessions. These shoes have some of the same features that you will find in high-end $200+ shoes. These are easily the best entry level climbing shoes on the market today. Make sure to get a pair of these beautiful Italian leather kicks!
Women's Model: SCARPA Women's Force V
Men's Model: SCARPA Men's Force V
Awards
Best Value
The Mad Rock Drifters give you everything you need and nothing you don't. Easily the best value on the list.
Best (Stickiest) Rubber
The Five Ten Rouges features Stealth C4 rubber. This stuff with stick on anything and boost your performance immediately.
All Around Best
You really can't go wrong with these Scarpa's. They offer the best performance and comfort of a beginner shoe.
Conclusion
We hope you liked all the shoes on our Beginner's Climbing Shoe list. If you didn't see your favorite shoe drop us a comment below.
Make sure to stay safe while starting your journey into the climbing world.
For some extra inspiration, check out the video below of Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra working the hardest rock climb in the world.
Enjoy and Keep Crushing!
Owner and Operator of Every Last Rock. He is dedicated to spreading the Stoke about all things climbing. Often found Bouldering around the US and obsessively training.