How to Layer for Intense Winter Conditions When Alpine and Ice Climbing

For alpinists and ice climbers, lots of planning and preparation for a long, cold day on the mountain is standard procedure. The mountains are a harsh environment and are even harsher on those who enter under prepared. At high elevations, conditions can change drastically in just a few minutes, so dressing properly is an important part of a successful mission.

Should you choose to brave the winter conditions, a long day of alpine or ice climbing can be an incredibly rewarding experience. However, ensuring that you are prepared for whatever conditions the mountains may throw at you is crucial to an enjoyable day of alpine or ice climbing.

Wicking Your Sweat: Base Layer

Prior to heading out, it is important to choose the proper base layers. A quick look at the expected weather conditions can help guide you, but it is always important to consider personal preference. A mild day full of sunshine calls for a lightweight layer, whereas a long day with expected wind and snow is much better suited to a mid or heavyweight option. In addition to different weights, base layers are constructed using a variety of fabrics, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Many high-performance base layers are made from a synthetic material, such as polypropylene. Synthetic base layers tend to have better wicking and sweat dissipation properties than other comparable materials. They also tend to be more durable and hold fewer odors.

Another material that makes for a great, high performance base layer is merino wool. Like a synthetic base layer, clothing made from merino wool is made with performance in mind. Merino wool is very breathable and helps wick sweat away from your body, ensuring that you don’t overheat. While merino wool may not be quite as durable as a comparable synthetic layer, merino wool does have some naturally occurring anti-microbial properties which can help keep odors down even after multiple uses. The local Colorado company, VOORMI makes a great line of high performance merino wool base layers.

Base layers can be one of the most important pieces of a functional layering set up. It can be difficult to dress for a day where you are sure to be exerting yourself while in a cold and intense climate. Should you overdress and start to sweat, a slight drop in the temperature can cause the sweat to freeze, causing major chills in just a few minutes. On the other hand, under dressing can lead to a long, cold and uncomfortable day on the mountain. Be sure to take into consideration how your body handles cold. This will help you choose between a light, mid or heavy weight layer.

Keeping You Warm: Mid Layer

Like choosing a base layer, picking out the proper mid layer can be a bit of a process. Depending on the weather, anyone heading out for alpine or ice climbing in intense conditions is left to choose from a number of different options. Made from a range of materials and designed to excel in different environments, mid layer options are nearly endless. Here are some tips on how to choose the one best suited for you.

Fleece makes for a great mid layer. It is very warm, cozy and durable. Fleece doesn’t hold water very well, so even if you get wet, weather from perspiration or precipitation, fleece will continue to keep you warm. Unfortunately, because fleece does not absorb water, it can be difficult to clean. Most fleece layers will develop a sort of “funk” after a season or two of use. For a top of the line fleece jacket, the Arcteryx Delta LT Jacket is a great choice.

Down is another option to consider when choosing a mid layer. Down is very warm, lightweight and packable. Most jackets on the market these days feature a built-in stuff sack so if the conditions rapidly change it is easy to stow a down jacket out of the way. The major downside to down as a mid layer is that it loses all insulating properties when it gets wet.

While the primary function of a mid layer is to provide insulation, ensuring that your choice is up to whatever weather is thrown its way is crucial to a successful expedition.

Bracing the Wind: Outer Layer

Your outer layer is your last line of defense against the elements. A proper outer layer will keep you dry, block the wind, and protect your inner layers from even the worst of weather conditions. When choosing an outer layer, there a few things to consider.

There are two main types of outer layers; hard shell and soft shell. Hard shells are lighter weight, fully waterproof and have a hood. Most hard shells don’t offer much in the way of insulation and pair best with a strong base and mid layer. A hard shell is the way to go when the weather is at its worst. Patagonia’s Pluma Jacket is a great option option to consider.

On the other hand, soft shell jackets tend to be a bit heavier, more durable and are sometimes waterproof. They offer more in the way of insulation, but don’t hold up as well in wetter weather conditions. A soft shell is a great choice for a chilly day where there isn’t much precipitation in the forecast.

No matter which option you choose, you should opt for one with a hood that will fit over a helmet. While a helmet can offer some warmth, a hood offers peace of mind when things turn for the worse.

Covering up the Rest: Socks, Hat, Gloves

The final piece of gearing up for a day of climbing in the winter is ensuring that your extremities remain warm. With a loss of dexterity in either your hands or your feet, a day of climbing can quickly turn stressful or even dangerous.

Merino wool socks, such as Farm to Feet’s Park City ski sock make for a warm, comfortable option. Merino wool helps wick moisture away from your feet, minimizing sweat.

For the coldest of days, make sure to pack a lightweight beanie that fits underneath your helmet. This can make a long day out in the cold significantly more tolerable.

When choosing gloves, look for something that offers warmth without sacrificing dexterity. As any climber knows, the use of your hands is vital to safe and successful climbing. If your hands get cold easily, a heavier pair of mittens or gloves can be a nice addition to your kit.

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