Training for Climbing By Simply Climbing
If you are reading this article, then I am sure you have read the hundreds of other climbing training articles. There is no perfect training regimen to help you to become the strongest climber in the world, and I am not saying that any of these other articles are wrong or that mine is right. What I will say is that none of them are probably all that fun. A lot of training regimens require you to do the “Mr. T” workout on the hang board, a bunch of laps on the campus board, or pull on weights. If you are like me then you probably don’t like the idea of a workout with no real feeling of accomplishment. Personally, I have only been to a (regular) gym, other than the rock gym, a handful of times, and I spend all my time on a hang board or campus board. This doesn’t hold me back, don’t let it hold you back.
The Regimen
Step 1: Enjoy what you are doing.
This may sound obvious, but if you do not enjoy climbing then your motivation will be low. Without motivation, this workout will not work. Learn to enjoy the process of working a problem or route. Learn to enjoy every move you make whether it be on a rock outside or inside.
Step 2: Climb your favorites.
If you have been climbing at the gym for a little while, then I am guessing you have your favorite climbs. Start off by doing all the easiest climbs and then move your way up. Learn to dial every move on these climbs. If your body could do these climbs blindfolded, then you’re doing it right. Being able to dial in moves is when your body learns the most. I would suggest finding 10-20 problems at least 2 grades lower that your absolute limit to train on.
Step 3: Get on that project.
You have just climbed these amazing problems and you are feeling great. Go find your project and work it as hard as you can. Your project should be at least a grade above your absolute limit. You are going to fall on this climb a lot. That is exactly what you want. This climb should be something you try for a long time with no success. It sounds extremely frustrating, which it is, but you need to power through it. In the process of working this seemingly impossible climb, your body will be learning so many new things, and your brain will be exhausting all its resources to solve it. The time you hit that impossible move your body and brain are going to freak out. It is like no other feeling and now you can do it. The step you just took will take you to the next level.
Check out our full guide on Strength Training for Climbing.
Let us know your training tips in the comments below!
A recent transplant to the Pacific North West Jon is always exploring new rocks and loving the endless granite. Constantly trying to push his limits you will find him spending his weekends projecting some of Washingtons hardest Boulders.
