What’s the difference?
OK, here it goes…
When it comes to the term “climbing” there can be a lot of confusion. What is the difference between Rock Climbing and Bouldering?
Bouldering vs Rock Climbing is not exactly black and white (unlike all the cool images in this post…).
Joking aside, depending on who you talk to, Bouldering and Rock Climbing could be conceived as vastly different activities.
In a sense, Rock Climbing is a more general term that includes all types of rock climbing, whereas, Bouldering a specific type of climbing.
So you can think of Rock Climbing as a blanket statement that describes anyone who climbs on rocks, whereas Bouldering describes a specific discipline or style within Rock Climbing.
For those of you who do not already know, there are many different styles of Rock Climbing. The main types of Rock Climbing are as follows:
- Lead Climbing – Climbing a route from bottom up using a rope for protection
- Trad Climbing – Lead climbing without using fixed protection
- Sport Climbing – Lead climbing using fixed protection
- Top Roping – Having the rope running through fixed anchors at top of the route (good beginner style)
- Bouldering – Climbing boulders less than 20ft (~7m) using crash pads as protection
- Highball Bouldering – Climbing more than 20 ft (~7m) but less than 50 ft (~16m) using crash pads
- Deep Water Soloing – Climbing over deep water without any protection (intending to fall in the water)
- Free Soloing – Climbing over 50 ft (~16m) without a rope or any protection
Note: We are omitting any discussion about Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, and Aid Climbing…
As you can see, there are many different types of Rock Climbing. An inexperienced bystander would most likely not understand the difference between any of these different styles of Rock Climbing. However, to make things similar we can bunch Rock Climbing into two separate categories, Rope, and No Rope.
Roped Climbing
Roped Climbing is simply climbing with the protection of a rope. If you fall during climbing, the rope will catch you before you hit the ground (hopefully at least).
This type of climbing is usually done from 50 ft (~16m) to over 3000 ft (~900m) off the ground.
A rope allows a climber to make mistakes while climbing or try moves that are extremely difficult without any serious repercussions. Ropes have allowed the sport of climbing to dramatically push the limits of what is humanly possible.
Types of Rock Climbing that uses a rope:
- Traditional Climbing
- Sport Climbing
- Top Rope Climbing
All these types of climbing share the need for a belayer and also to use nothing be your hands and feet (and other weird body parts if your a Trad Head) to climb up the rock face.
The grading for this type of climbing is typically done on either the Yomesite Decimal System or the French Sport Grading Scale.
Climbing Without Ropes
This is climbing in its simplest form. Just you and the rock, nothing else. Well, actually today Rock Climber use pads and spotter to protect them from falling on the ground. This will help some falls but only up to a certain height.
This is typically known as Bouldering, but there are a few variations that are a bit on the wild side.
Types of Ropeless Climbing are:
- Bouldering
- Deep Water Soloing
- Free Soloing
Even though all of these types of climbing don’t use a rope they have almost nothing else in common.
Deep Water Soloing is more of a fun summer activity that climbs on cliffs over deep lakes or oceans, whereas, Free Soloing is climbing on a normal (and typically roped) climb without any protection from falling. So falling while Free Soloing is fatal.
Types of Climbing
Know that we know a little bit more about Rock Climbing, let’s dive in a bit deeper into the minor differences.
Lead Climbing
So a climber and their partner would start standing on the ground and as the climber moves up the wall the belay will let out rope. The climber will periodically fix the rope into the wall during the ascent in order to shorten an unexpected fall.
This type of climbing requires excellent endurance. Routes can be over 50 moves long without a rest and the walls can be very steep.
Lead Climbers must also have an experienced belayer to ensure they do not get injured. A serious understanding of ropes, belay devices, carabiners, rappelling, and clipping techniques are a must!
This is commonly done using fixed anchors for safety. Often this is split into two sub-categories. Trad Climbing and Sport Climbing
Trad Climbing
Traditional Climbing (Trad Climbing) is climbing without using bolts fixed to the wall. Instead, one climbs with gear that fixes to the rock temporarily, such as nuts and cams.
This is a highly skilled type of climbing and should only be attempted by those who have been taught by an experienced climber. A fall during a Trad Climb can pull gear out of the wall unexpectedly.
Typically, this is done where prominent cracks exist in the rock so gear placement is straightforward.
Sport Climbing
Sport Climbing is done using fixed bolts in the rock. To Sport Climb a route someone must have previously climbed the route and placed bolts in the wall for protection.
The mechanics of how Sport Climbing works is essentially the same as Trad Climbing with the exception of placing gear during the climb.
This is a safer and more beginner friendly version of lead climbing. This can be done with only a rope, harness, and some quickdraws.
Top Roping
Top roping is the most basic form of rope climbing. Usually, you will need someone to first lead climb to the anchors and then set up the rope in order to climb, but it offers the safest mode of rope climbing. Falls will be much less aggressive while top roping.
The best Top Roping spots are ones where you can hike up to the top of the route and set up your rope. It is so easy to climb at these spots with any level of climber.
Many modern gyms have Auto-belays that are devices that let you Top Rope without a Belayer. This is a good form of practice for a new climber.
Bouldering
Note: Bouldering can be done SOLO or in other words, by yourself.
HighBall Bouldering vs Free Solo
This is a tough one. Highball bouldering is climbing something so tall that you would be severely injured if you fell. On the other hand, Free Soloing is something where, if you fell, it would be certain death.
That being said there is still some definite gray area that exists on this topic and probably a 200 page long MP forum thread on it.
Rock Climbing vs Bouldering
In general, when somebody says they are “Rock Climbing” they are talking about all types of climbing where it is with or without ropes. On occasion “Rock Climbing” can be used to just define lead climbing, as this is the most popular and well-known type of climbing.
You will sometimes hear somebody say that Bouldering isn’t Rock Climbing. This is usually either a dedicated Sport Climber or an Old School Climber. They will often use the phrase “Bouldering is only training.”
So does bouldering help rock climbing?
It is true that Bouldering got its origins as a way to train difficult moves and gain strength for lead climbing when it was too cold to climb long routes or multi-pitches.
That being said, Bouldering has become an extremely popular way to enjoy the sport of climbing.
Rock Climbing vs Bouldering
| Rock Climbing | Bouldering | |
|---|---|---|
| Grades | 5.0 to 5.15c | V0 to V17 |
| Height | Over 20ft (~3m) | Under 20ft (~3m) |
| Climbing Line | Route | Problem |
| Protection | Rope/Anchors | Crashpad/Spotters |
Does Bouldering Help Rock Climbing?
The answer to this is very simple, yes! Bouldering helps Climbing.
Bouldering helps you develop power. This power makes moves that you previously thought were impossible, so much easier.
Many Rock Climbers will only stick to on discipline of climbing. Although this is not a bad idea, cross-training between all types of climbing will help you develop into a stronger and more well-rounded climber.
Bouldering vs Rock Climbing Grades
Bouldering and Rock Climbing use different grades for describing how hard it is to climb.
On top of this, Bouldering and Rock Climbing themselves have different scales that can be converted between one and another.
Bouldering used the Hueco Scale and the Font Scale, while Sport Climbing uses the Yomesite Decimal Scale and the French Sport Climbing Scale. Trad can even have some different scales, such as the British Trad Climbing Scale.
For more information on this topic please refer to this article.
Final Words about Climbing vs Bouldering
In summary, Rock climbing is something that is done on ropes, whereas, bouldering is shorter routes done using crash pads.
If someone asks you if is bouldering harder than rock climbing, explain to them how it’s different.
Let us know what you think about Rock Climbing vs Bouldering in the comments below. We love to hear about what you think.
If you are trying to Strength Train for Climbing (or Bouldering) check out this page.
Owner and Operator of Every Last Rock. He is dedicated to spreading the Stoke about all things climbing. Often found Bouldering around the US and obsessively training.